Iguazu Falls

Monday February 6th to Wednesday February 8th 2012

We flew from Mendoza to Iguazu City, Argentina, with a quick change of plane in BA.  These magnificent falls are situated where Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay all intersect, though Paraguay missed out on the actual falls, her border being slightly up river where the Parana river flows into the Igazu river to give the massive water for the cascades. On the Argentine side, the falls are wider and gentler, the Brazil side they are narrower but more furious and intense.

We stayed in the Sheraton Hotel, as it is the only one actually inside the National Park and it has a view of part of the falls from the lobby - quite a spectacle to greet you on arrival! The massive advantage is that you can walk the trails when all the multitude of day trippers have gone home, and also at crack of dawn (somewhat illegally, by ignoring the "open at 9am" signs on the chain barrier).

Planning only to go to the pool, me in my sarong, and flip-flops, we couldn’t resist a quick peep down the start of the trail – 2 hours later, we returned, me with sore ankles!!

The trails wanders through rainforest first, with cute families of coatis scavenging and romping near the snack bar…..

….then suddenly,  whoom! they're there, splendid, loud and absolutely hypnotizing. The falls are not the tallest, but they are incredibly wide and extremely loud, and very impressive. Still photos can't catch the noise or the action, but here are our best :

We stayed only one night there and next day after our early morning walk, quite alone communing with nature and the falls - bliss! - we drove over to the Brazilian side. The border crossing is very well organized as lots of people do day excursions - and I mean LOTS! The Brazilian side is visited by an average of 1000 people a day so in high summer that's maybe 3 x that, many being day trippers from Argentina. Both sides are very well arranged and managed, however,  with good facilities, trails, walkways and viewpoints.

The hotel inside the park in Brazil is the Hotel das Cataratas, an Orient Express hotel and absolutely gorgeous! So much nicer than the Sheraton and not much more in price. Mind, I had a bit of a shock at the wine prices after Mendoza! It's very highly taxed in Brazil, so Mick says we have to drink Caipirinhas, OK, when in Rome etc...!!!

We settled into our beautiful room, had a look around and then set off to the falls, again once the park was clearing.  The wildlife was great - cheeky little lizards, big iguanas, agouti (like huge grey guinea pigs-ish), vultures, woodpeckers, pretty butterflies, monkeys, more coati,  and some crazy swifts who nest on the cliffs behind the waterfalls - it was quite the David Attenborough experience!!

Woodpecker stealing nut when agouti Turned his back!

Agouti  above and swifts in waterfall on right

However, nothing could match the falls this side - one of the walkways goes right out into the water - a bit scary, but gives a fantastic perspective.  They are mighty indeed - huge volumes of water cascading down with thunderous noise, and vast spumes of spray making pretty rainbows.

We were incredibly lucky to be there for full moon, so set out again at 10.30pm with the moon fairly shy behind clouds, but luckily it came out completely once we got to the walkway across the water and we saw wonderful moon-bows in the spray - got soaked but it was worth it!!

Next day was a real hoot, we went up the river in a rubber boat, white water rafting and ducking into the gentler (but still fierce enough) falls to see them from the inside, if you could keep your eyes open!! At first I was filled with trepidation, but once we got going it was just such fun, you forgot your fear! Hugely exhilarating and highly recommended! We were lucky to be on one of the first boats out, by the time we got back there were about 100 people queuing up for the ride.

We walked the 3k back to the hotel to work off a bit of the fine food we were enjoying there, had a dip in the pool, another walk along the falls, sunset cocktails and a splendid dinner. I could get used to this! 

But tomorrow is another day..........to Paraty, south of Rio!